I came to South Africa to use running as a vehicle for
self-discovery, adventure, and to expose myself to vulnerability. As I explore new cultures and environments, I
learn that my normal isn’t
necessarily normal. Nice cars, name brand clothing, jewelry, and
every electronic known to man surround my normal life; the more I have, the
more I want. A Hippocratic lifestyle,
for sure, compared to the simplicity that running offers. I know this is wrong deep in my heart but I
don’t know how to change it. This trip
helped me take the first step.
I arrived in Cape Town after traveling half way around the
world from Colorado, USA. Tired and
hollowed from jet lag I journeyed 5 hours inland with an agenda to share and
seek knowledge from the people and learn about their culture along the
way. I stopped in Montagu, Calitzdorp,
Oudshoorn (oats-win), and Prince Albert with the Swartberg Mountains as my
final destination. The Cape Nature
Conservation is the agency that manages the natural heritage of the land that gave
me a great an overview of the area. While
researching I also learned about people living in the area at the turn of the
century, which intrigued me even more.
Who were these people and how did they survive in such a rugged and
isolated environment? More importantly,
why not live closer to towns where the conveniences of life are much more
plentiful?
The one –most striking- common thread was the optimism
everyone displayed. I felt a sense of
genuine happiness. People live
deliberately with only the essentials of life in mind, whereas, I’ve been
living unnecessarily by overindulgence.
One image I’ll never forget as I was leaving Calitzdorp, was a young boy
–no more than 4 years old- walking down the road with two bottles of water,
which he had just retrieved from the local river. Very humbling. I would imagine this was his daily chore, and
to him, this was normal.
The first couple of nights I was hosted by Living Waters
Farm (Erika and Johann) curators of the Donkey Trail. This farm, among many others,
is situated in a small valley above Calitzdorp that’s brimming with life:
vineyards, olive trees and expansive gardens, but no electricity. This is
simple living at its finest. Erika and Johann provided me an in-depth history of the Donkey Trail, which turned out to
be used primarily as a trading route over the spine of the Swartberg Mountains
to connect the Gamkaskloof valley on the other side. Donkeys were used to carry heavy loads in
trains and would sometimes traverse the 26km trail by themselves and arrive at
the other end as expected. Children from
the Gamkaskloof also used the trail so they could regularly attend school in
the opposite valley. After my
introduction to the area I went out on the trail and simply took my time to
observe and explore. As the sun was setting I hiked to the highest point around
and marveled at what I saw. I envisioned
the early settlers excitement as they crested the ridge to see the lush and
expansive valley below. This place was
rugged and isolated but so beautiful at the same time. I have never been so humbled thinking about
what it took to survive here.
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| Sunset on the first day (All photos courtesy Andrew King D4 Productions) |
On my second day of exploring I came across a couple of
local guides who had donkeys in tow. I
joined them as they made their way to Elands pass. Along the way they reiterated the history and
further pointed out some shrubs and plants and the usefulness of each. Short of the pass, I parted ways with the
guides and my thoughts suddenly shifted to all the modern conveniences in my
life that I consider necessary. Is there a way to curb my appetite for
conveniences and overindulgence? What I
think of as burdens, such as walking to town over a few miles or getting water
from the river, others think of as necessities for survival. How do I get back to appreciate my primal
instincts of survival and rid myself of the material things in which I think
are necessary? Experiences like this
help to put things in perspective.
Over-privileged, under-privileged, whatever privileged, doesn't matter;
I have found those with less to be more thankful, optimistic, and enthusiastic
towards everyone. The trail running
community is very much like this, with a sense of mutual respect and a we’re all in this together
mentality. I wanted to feel
vulnerability during my time in South Africa because I feel it’s a powerful way
to grow exponentially and help change all aspects of my life.
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| Guides on The Donkey Trail |
I consider myself an average family man with average running
talent and a huge appetite for adventure.
I have a corporate job that provides for my family while trail running
fuels my need for adventure. I started running trail races to redefine my
limits and what I lacked in talent I made up with hard work. This type of mentality has spilled over into
every aspect of my life, approaching everything with possibility. I continually ask myself “I wonder if..?” I ran my first marathon at the age of 11
because I wondered if it was
possible. I ran the 500-mile Colorado Trail –twice- because after the
first time I wondered if I could do it faster than anyone else. With the right mindset combined with hard
work, I believe anything is possible.
I reluctantly left Living Waters Farm and made my way to
Oudtshoorn (oats-win), which is known as the Ostrich capital of the world. I
had lunch in town, picked up supplies and checked in with Cape Nature, the
environmental agency managing the Swartberg Nature Reserve. For the next 3
nights I rented a house near Swartberg Pass, which had been built for the crews
during the construction of the road through the Swartberg range. This road, built by Thomas Bain and crew,
took 6 years to complete and officially opened in 1888. The amount of rock placed to support flat
stable portions of road on cliff edges is an amazing piece of engineering for
all time.
Cape Nature provided me with maps showing a series of trails
traversing the Swartberg Nature Reserve.
The Swartberg Mountains are part of the Cape Fold Belt, which is a fold
and thrust belt formed over 250 million years ago. The fold creates amazing
layers in the rocks looking much like ribbon candy, while the thrust creates
huge slabs of rocks piled upon each other exposing rocky jagged edges. Now I
was in my element with endless possibilities.
Each day I planned to explore a different trail, heading in different
directions.
The first morning I ran up and down the main Swartberg pass
road to get the legs talking to the lungs.
After a long journey in the car, the feeling of lactic acid building in
my legs was enough to clear my mind.
Later that day I headed to Prince Albert to learn about the town and
little more about the area. Why had it been
settled and why did people stay in this remote town? Simply stated on a sign entering the town “If wide-open spaces and the deafening
stillness inspire you then Prince Albert is your place”. It was founded over 250 years ago by Dutch Settlers and
still - to this day - provides a source of vibrant culture and necessities of
life, much as it did in the beginning.
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| In my element - Swartberg Mountains |
I spent the day walking around town and talking with the
locals. I found a local blacksmith who
was eager to talk and share his story.
This was the hardest working man I have ever seen, and yet, very giving
with his time. As he taught me how to
hammer out a piece of glowing red-hot steel, it was clear he was very passionate
about his craft. Later I visited a local
factory and watched workers play a game of dominos during their lunch. They played with such enthusiasm as they called
out their numbers and smacked down their dominos. This was Prince Albert: hard working,
passionate and enthusiastic people who enjoyed the simplicity of their
community. A simple game of dominos and the working of a hot piece of steel,
simple and deliberate and equally as happy.
People live here for the same reason I trail run; the simplicity and
happiness it provides.
Now that I’ve gotten a feel of the land and culture I
decided to head deeper into the range; to the Gamkaskloof, also known as Die
Hel. I left the comfort of the house and
ran 30km in search of this secluded valley on a road that went as far as I could
see, dipping behind several bends and ridges, each providing a new valley of
exploration and further built the anticipation of the Gamkaskloof. Then, just
as I had imagined, I came around a bend and there it was, the Gamkaskloof. Several hundred meters below, a sliver of
paradise 20-kilometers long, 300-meters wide and teaming with green vegetation
from end to end. I ran the winding road
down to the valley with the same excitement as finishing a race, smiling from
ear to ear with anticipation of what I would encounter.
I’ve been very fortunate to be able to run all over the
world. Not because I’m the most talented runner but because I’ve been in the
right place at the right time when opportunity knocks. I run to live and do my best thinking on the
run in the isolation and peacefulness of nature. This is what centers me. I feel I become a better father, husband,
friend and colleague. The remote nature
of extreme environments makes me feel more alive, whereas living in a metropolitan
area surrounded by material things only offers false pretenses of true
happiness.
The valley was thought to be discovered in the early 19th
century and later grew to about 160 people living in complete isolation. Their
only access routes –initially- where
through a steep river valley or over the top of the mountains via a couple of
rough trails, one of which I had explored a few days previously, the Donkey
Trail. As the community grew in the Gamkaskloof, they decided to build a
school, which meant they would stay in the valley for nearly everything except
for trading goods. They farmed grain,
vegetables, fruit, tobacco, beer made from wild honey, and even distilling
something call Witblits (or white lightning) made from corn mash.
Once the road was built in 1962 people began to leave. The children attended high schools in nearby
villages and most of them did not return to the subsistence life in the
valley. The elderly returned to
retirement villages outside the valley and overall the number of residents
diminished. The valley was declared a
national monument in 1997 and was included into the Swartberg Nature
Reserve. Subsequently the cottages in
the valley have been renovated and equipped with solar power and
bathrooms. Because of the improvements,
the Gamkaskloof has become a tourist attraction as well as an adventurer
paradise.
Today, a few people still live in the valley and even
operate a restaurant, which serves food from their subsistence farms. The loaf of bread I ate for lunch was made in
an outdoor oven by a woman who learned the craft of bread making passed down
from many generations. You don’t know
what you don’t know so these people choose to stay secluded, and just like
everyone else that I spoke to, there was a genuine happiness and enjoyment
about their life. They wanted to share
their story as much as I wanted to learn.
Simple living is their normal. It’s hard work to live a simple life but
provides so much gratification and happiness.
If that’s the point in life then why know anything else.
I started ultra running because of two passions of mine: backpacking
and running. As a boy scout I used to
take long backpacking trips deep into remote areas with a heavy backpack loaded
down with some of the conveniences of modern life. As my sense of exploration expanded I wondered if I could lighten the load
and go farther? Pretty soon I was leaving the house with just a fanny pack and
a water bottle. I was doing more with
less. Much like the people I encountered
in and around the Swartberg Mountains; they travel long distances on foot for
the essentials and through the process live deliberately and happy. If I can
achieve happiness by simplifying my life then why not remove some of the modern
conveniences that have become part of my normal life? I honestly think I don’t want to expose
myself to vulnerability because of my fear of failure.
All of this made me realize how far away we’ve gotten from
what normal should be for human beings. Adaptation is a strength that has
allowed us to survive as a society and yet today we have gotten so far away
from the primal essence of life. I live
with so many comforts in my life, thinking I’m thriving. Yet these people live with so much less while
leading a happy and successful life.
Modern conveniences have crossed the line into overindulgence and
created a sense of entitlement. I can
–and should do- with far less. As a
father I should be teaching my kids about subsistence living, not providing all
the latest modern conveniences. I am not
doing them any favors if the next generation is to be better than the last, but
as a species, we must be better than the last in order to survive. The image of the little boy walking down the
road with two water bottles under his arms will forever be etched in mind. He will someday teach his kids to the same.
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| Contemplating it all |
I leave South Africa with everything I was looking for:
self-discovery, adventure, and most importantly to expose myself to
vulnerability. I run in remote places to
gain a sense of freedom and center myself, this makes me happy. South Africa is an absolutely beautiful and
diverse place filled with a rich and vibrant culture. Whether in the city centers or in the remote
bush, people I encountered are enthusiastic, deliberate, and happy. I recognize
that I’ve been living with a mentality of once
I’m successful I’ll be happy and need to change it around to Once I’m happy I’ll be successful. Being aware of the difference will allow me
to live simply and pass it on to the next generation. Now, I wonder if I’m strong enough to be the change I want to see in my
family. Running has been at the center of my life for quite some time and I never
really figured out why I did it because it’s such hard work. But that’s the point; the result of hard work
is more hard work and the gratification of progress. Well, simple living is hard work but yet so
gratifying. So running is very much like
life should be: simple, deliberate and provide genuine happiness along the
way. Running is -and always has been- my
gateway to living a simple, happy life.
